Chapter - 02

Knots, Bends, Hitches And Splices

The real problem in advising the boatman as to the knots he should learn to tie and use is to select the few that are of real utility on the average vessel and exclude the numerous knots which, although serving a special purpose excellently, are of little practical use to the average boatman.

The short list of knots described below and illustrated in the accompanying sketches will meet all ordinary situations. Better know these knots—practice until they can be tied with certainty in the dark or blindfolded—than to have a superficial knowledge of a greater number of knots, including many that are of little practical value.

A knot or splice is never as strong as the rope itself. It is stated that the average efficiency of knots varies from about 50 to 60 per cent of the rope itself, but a well-made splice has about 85 to 95 per cent of the rope's strength. Splices, therefore, are preferred for heavy loads.

It may be of some interest to recall that the strength of a rope is derived largely from the friction that exists between the individual fibers, yarn and strands, of which the rope is made. The twisting of these fibers into yarn, then into strands, hawsers and finally cables is always carried out in such a manner as to increase the amount and effectiveness of the friction between the rope elements. In the tying of knots this principle of making use of friction is also applicable, for in this manner, much more can be accomplished by the use of a simple knot, so tied that the strain on the rope adds to the knot's holding power, than will ever develop from a conglomeration of hitches, many of which serve no useful purpose, and which, moreover, make it more practicable in the end to cut the rope than to untie the knots. From the examples which follow it will be evident that wherever possible the most effective use is made of friction between two or more portions of a knot in order to increase its holding power.
 
The simple overhand knot is used to keep the end of a rope from unlaying. This knot jams and may become almost impossible to untie. A better knot for the purpose is: the figure eight knot. This does not jam.

1. OVERHAND & 2. FIGURE EIGHT

The square or reef knot, perhaps the most useful knot known. The rope manipulated by the right hand (this is the rope leading from the left side of the sketch and terminating in the arrow in A) is turned over the other rope in tying both the first and second half of the knot. Learn to always turn this rope over the other and the knot can be tied with certainty in the dark. If the rope manipulated by the right hand is first turned over and then under the other rope the treacherous granny knot will result.

3. SQUARE OR REEF KNOT

Do not use the square knot to tie together lines of different sizes, as it will slip. The reef or square knot is used for tying light lines together (not for tying heavy hawsers), for tying awning stops, reef points, cord on packages, and in fact is put to such numerous uses by sailors that many landsmen call it the sailor's knot. The knot has one serious fault. It jams and is difficult to untie after being heavily stressed.

4. SHEET OR BECKET BEND

The sheet or becket bend, known to landsmen as the weaver's knot, is used for tying two lines together. It will not slip even if there is great difference in the sizes of the lines. To make the knot secure for connecting hawsers for towing, the free ends of the lines should be stopped down with twine in the manner illustrated in the figure of the reeving line bend.

The bowline is a knot second in usefulness only to the square knot, The bowline will not slip, does not pinch or kink the rope as much as some other knots, and does not jam and become difficult to untie. By tying a bowline with a small loop and passing the line through the loop the running bowline is obtained. This is an excellent form of running noose.

5. BOWLINE

Bowlines are used wherever a secure loop or noose is needed in the end of a line, such as a line which is to be secured to a bollard in making a boat fast to a pier or wharf. They may also be used in securing lines to anchors where there is no time to make a splice. Hawsers are sometimes connected by two bowlines, the loop of one knot being passed through the loop of the other.

The clove hitch is used for making a line fast temporarily to a pile or bollard.

6. CLOVE HITCH & 7. TWO HALF HITCHES

Two half hitches are used for making a line fast to a bollard, pile, timber, or stanchion. Note that the knot consists of a turn around the fixed object and a clove hitch around the standing part of the line.

Correct method of making fast to a cleat: the half hitch which completes the fastening is taken with the free part of the line. The line can then be freed without taking up slack in the standing part.

8. CORRECT METHOD OF MAKING FAST TO A CLEAT AND
9. INCORRECT METHOD OF MAKING FAST TO A CLEAT

Common incorrect method of making fast to a cleat: the half hitch is taken with the standing part of the line and the line consequently can not be freed without taking up slack in the standing part. Accidents have been caused by the use of this type of fastening on lines which must be freed quickly.

10. REEVING LINE BEND FREE ENDS MUST BE STOPPED DOWN WITH TWINE

The reeving line bend, so called because it is used to connect lines which must pass through a small opening, such as a hawse pipe.

11. FISHERMAN'S BEND

The fisherman's bend, also called the anchor bend, is handy for making fast to a buoy or spar or the ring of an anchor. In some localities it is preferred to the thimble and eye splice for attaching the anchor line to the ring. As is evident from the illustration, it is made by taking two round turns around the ring, then passing the end under both turns to form a half hitch around the standing part of the line. For further security, a second half hitch is taken around the standing part only, or in place of the last half hitch, the end may be stopped down or seized back to the line with twine.

11. TWO METHODS OF WHIPPING A ROPE END

All butt-ended ropes should of course be whipped to prevent raveling of the strands. Two common methods for doing this are shown in the sketch. While these figures are not strictly to scale this has been done purposely in order that there should be no difficulty in following the several steps involved in either of the two methods.

How To Make An Eye Splice

Start the splice by unlaying the strands, about six inches to a foot or more, depending on the size of rope you are splicing. Now whip the end of each strand to prevent its unlaying while being handled.

Next form a loop in the rope by laying the end back along the standing part. Hold the standing part away from you in the left hand, loop toward you. The stranded end can be worked with the right hand.

The size of loop is determined by the point where the opened strands are first tucked under the standing part of the rope (point X, Figure 1). If the splice is being made around a thimble, the rope is laid snugly in the thimble groove and point X will be at the tapered end of the thimble.

Now lay the three opened strands across the standing part as shown in Figure 1 so that the center strand B lies over and directly along the standing part. Left-hand strand A leads off to the left; right-hand strand C to the right of the standing part.

Tucking of strand ends A, B and C under the strands of the standing part is the next step. Get this right and the rest is easy. See Figure 2.

Start with the center strand B. Select the topmost strand (2) of the standing part near point X and tuck B under it. Haul it up snug but not so tight as to distort the natural lay of all strands. Note that the tuck is made from right to left, against the lay of the standing part.

Now take left-hand strand A and tuck under strand (1), which lies to the left of strand (2). Similarly take strand C and tuck under strand (3), which lies to the right of strand (2). Be sure to tuck from right to left in every case.
The greatest risk of starting wrong is in the first tuck of strand C. It should go under (3), from right to left. Of course, strands (1), (2), and (3) are arranged symmetrically around the rope.

It may help to visualize this by referring to Figure 3, a cross-section through the rope at X, seen from below.

If the first tuck of each of strands A, B and C is correctly made, the splice at this point will look as shown in Figure 4.

The splice is completed by making at least two additional tucks with each of strands A, B and C. As each tuck is made be sure it passes under one strand of the standing part, then over the strand next above it, and so on, the tucked strand running against the lay of the strands of the standing part. This is clearly shown in Figure 5, the completed splice. Note C, C1 and C2, the same strand as it appears after successive tucks.

Suggestions—The splice can be made neater by tapering. This is done by cutting out part of the yarns from the underside of the tucking strands, just before tucking. In any case, the first tuck is made with the full strand. After that, some prefer to cut out one-third of the yarns, make a second tuck; then cut out another third of the yarns, and make the third tuck. This produces an even taper. Others prefer to make two tucks with the full strands, and two more with strands halved. Fishermen often take two or three full tucks without bothering to taper at all.

After the splice is finished, roll it on deck under foot to smooth it up. Then put a strain on it and finally cut off the projecting ends of the strands.

If the rope is heavy or new and cannot be easily opened by twisting in order to make the tucks, use a fid to open the strands. This is a smooth tapered tool of hard wood about 12 or 2 inches at the butt, tapered to a point in a length of a foot or more.

Completed Eye Splice

When unlaid strands tend to untwist, give them a little extra twist as the tucks are made so that the strands keep their strand-like quality and do not appear as a bunch of loose yarns in the finished splice. Watch this specially after cutting out yarns.

When setting the tucked strands up taut, haul them successively back, toward the loop, not in the direction of tucking. See that each set of tucks leaves all strands neatly in place, not distorted by excessive strain on some strands, too little on others.

In splicing heavy lines, a temporary whipping is sometimes put around the rope itself to prevent strands from unlaying too far.

How To Make A Short Splice

A short splice is used where two ropes are to be permanently joined, provided they do not have to pass through the sheave hole of a block. The splice will be much stronger than any knot.

The short splice enlarges the rope's diameter at the splice, so in cases where the spliced rope must pass through a sheave hole, a long splice should be used.

To start the short splice, unlay the strands of both rope ends for a short distance as described for the eye splice. Whip the six strand ends to prevent unlaying. A seizing should also be made around each of the ropes to prevent strands from unlaying too far. These seizings can be cut after the splice is completed. Next "marry" the ends so that the strands of each rope lie alternately between strands of the other as shown in Figure 6. Now tie all three strands of one rope temporarily to the other. (Some omit this step; it is not absolutely essential.)

Working with the three free strands, splice them into the other rope by tucking strands exactly as described for the eye splice* working over and under successive strands from right to left against the lay of the rope.

Next cut the temporary seizing of the other strands and repeat, splicing these three remaining strands into the opposite rope.

Just as in the eye splice, the short splice can be tapered as desired by cutting out yarns from the strands after the first full tuck is made. A third of the yarns may be cut out before each of the second and third tucks, making a very neat job.

Figure 7 shows how the short splice would appear if not tapered, before finally trimming off the ends of strands. Never cut strand ends off too close. Otherwise when a heavy strain is put on the rope, the last tuck tends to work out.

The Long Splice

When the ropes are to be permanently joined without increasing the diameter, so that it will render freely through a block, the long splice is useful. In this case, unlay the strands of both rope ends about four times as far as required for a short splice.

Now join them, with strands alternating, as though beginning a short splice. Next unlay one strand of one rope and in its place lay the opposite strand from the other rope. The process is repeated for two other strands, but in the opposite direction.

This accounts for four strands. The remaining two are allowed to remain in the position they took when the rope ends were first placed together, the result at this stage appearing as in the sketch. However, instead of tucking the ends against the lay as in a short splice, each tuck in a long splice is made with the lay of the rope so that it follows continuously around the same strand. Tapering, as previously described, can be done by cutting out part of the yarns.

14. LONG SPLICE

A Few Tips

Practice these knots with a couple of short lengths of line and put them to practical use. Always keep lines dry and clean. Keep ends of lines neatly served or whipped with twine to prevent unlaying. Serving or whipping is preferable to the crown knots or splices sometimes used to prevent unlaying as these knots and splices prevent reeving the line through the openings of a block which would otherwise take the line nicely.

The knots, hitches, bends and splices just described are sufficient for all practical purposes aboard the average small boat. To make them with facility in a seamanlike manner, have some experienced yachtsman, sailor or fisherman show you how he'd do it, especially the bowline, clove hitch and splice.

Coiling Down

A line is generally coiled down, always with the lay, when it must be kept ready for emergency use, clear for running. To make a straight coil, a circular bight of the secured end is laid and successive bights are placed on top until all the line has been used; the whole coil is then capsized to leave it clear for running. Care must be taken to avoid kinks.

Faking Down

A line is generally faked down when the entire length must be run out rapidly. To fake down, a short length of the free end is laid out in a straight line and then turned back to form a flat coil. Successive flat coils are then formed, laying the end of each coil on top of the preceding coil. Care must be taken to prevent coils from falling back and fouling preceding coils.

Flemishing

A line may be flemished down when it will not be needed on short notice and the greatest neatness is desired. Successive circles of the line are wrapped about each other with the free end at the center, the completed coil resembling a mat. It should be noted that line flemished down on a canvas or wood deck and left there some time will mark the deck as well as remain wet on the under side and, therefore, deteriorate.

Worming

Worming: consists of following the lay of the rope, between the strands, with small stuff, tarred, to keep the moisture out and for filling out the round of the rope.

Parceling

Parceling: consists of wrapping the rope spirally with long strips of canvas, following the lay of the rope and overlapping.

Serving

Serving: consists of wrapping small stuff over the parceling opposite to the lay of the rope, to form a taut, protective cover.

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